A beaded pendant that just finished making as a gift.
It measures almost 2" long by 1.25" wide.
The center bead is an 8 mm 'pearl', the barrel beads are 8 mm long, the smaller 'pearls' are 4 mm and the rest are 11/0 seed beads in metallic silver and iridescent cobalt blue. The bail is 12.5 mm tall by 5 mm at its widest.
I strung the beads together with 6 lb.white Fireline (crystal).
Thursday, September 10, 2015
Monday, December 22, 2008
Blood, Sweat & Tears Afghan
(Pattern not yet tested.)
Finished size: approx. 57" x 85".
I am making a weight loss scrapghan of teardrop shaped pieces. Each teardrop represents the blood, sweat and tears that went into losing each lb. I'll make 5 teardrops for each lb. lost. 25 per row and 20 rows. I am using bright and dark colors, but no black, grays, browns/tans, or beige. No white ones either because I am putting them together in white.
I will post the pattern as I go. Here is my progress so far:
Teardrops: worsted weight, scraps of different colors - approx. 7-8 ft. needed for each teardrop
Edging: white, worst weight
Hook: H8 (5.00 mm)
Teardrop - Make 500
Ch. 5, sl to 1st ch. to join.
Rnd 1 - Ch. 2 (1st dc), 15 dcs in ring. Sl in top of 2nd ch to join. Do not fasten off. (16 dcs)
To make tip - Sl in next st. (hdc, dc) in next st. Ch 3, working now into back bumps of those chains, sk 1st ch, sl in next two. Picot made.
Hdc in same st as the (hdc, dc) made previously. Sl next two sts. Fasten off.
"Making Tip of Teardrop." With audio.
Sorry, I'm left-handed and I'm using my camera phone.
Joining the 1st 25 Teardrops Into a Row
The rounded end of the teardrop is the bottom and the pointed tip is the top.
Rnd 1 - Holding a teardrop tip down, join with white to the bottom most sc of teardrop. Ch 1, sc in same st.
Sc in each st around** to its widest point, join with sc to the widest point of 2nd teardrop (tip up). Now continue sc up to the top of the 2nd teardrop.
Place 3 scs into picot, continue edging down other side of 2nd teardrop to its widest point and join 3rd teardrop (tip down).
Keep adding teardrops, alternating tip up/tip down and joining at their wides points until you have joined all 25. Now you have one side of the row edged.
Continue edging the other side of the row in the same manner.
As you reach the joins already made, be sure to join these same sts again with a sc or there will be a noticeable gap in the edging.
Rnd 2 - Ch 1, 2 sc's in 2nd sc worked into picot (the very tip of the teardrop).
*Sc next 2 sts, sk 1 st, dc dec in next st and in the st directly across from that one in the 2nd teardrop (these 2 sts are directly above the sts in which the teardrops were connected in the 1st rnd of edging. You will now work around the bottom of the 2nd teardrop:
Sk 1 st, 2 sc's next st. Sc next 2 sts, 2 sc's next st (very bottom of teardrop).
Sc next 2 sts, 2 sc's next st. Sc next st, sk 1 st, dc dec as previously to join next teardrop.
You will now work towards the tip of the 3rd teardrop:
Sk 1 st, sc next st. 2sc into next st (very tip).
Repeat from * until one side of the row is completely edged.
In the following section, you will connect this 2nd row to the 1st as you edge the other side of this row.
**Important Notes: In the first rnd of edging, I placed 2 scs in one st at strategic points in the edging, specifically at the top and when going around the curves on each side so that the edging didn't pucker. Also when I decided exactly where I wanted to join the drops, I counted how many sts away from the tip that was, in my case 5, so that each drop was joined at the same spot. When doing the 2nd rnd of edging there is one sc in each st around, with the exceptions of placing two sc's in the very tip, in the very bottom, 2 sts away from either side of the very bottom (or wherever you need to place them around the curves to keep the edging from puckering), and finally, skipping 1 st before and after each dc dec.
Rnd 1 - Work same as Rnd 1 on 1st row.
Rnd 2 - Work same as Rnd 2 on 1st row until one side is edged. Lay the 1st row flat on the table and the 2nd row beneath it. Line up the teardrops bottom to bottom and tip to tip. As you are edging the other side of the 2nd row you will connect it to the lower edge of the 1st row as such: Sl st together the 3 bottom-most sts of the 1st teardrop in row 2 with the 3 bottom-most sts in the 1st teardrop of row 1. Continue edging the 2nd row and when you reach the tip of the 2nd teardrop, sl st together the tips of the 2nd teardrops in each row: Now there are 3 scs worked into the picot of the lower tip and you'll be connecting it to the tip above it which has its 2nd Rnd of edging where there are 2 scs worked into the tip. So insert your hook into the 2nd sc in the picot below and sl st to the first sc in the tip above. Then insert your hook back into the 2nd sc in the picot below and sl st to the 2nd sc in the tip above. Continue edging the 2nd row, joining the bottoms and tips together until the rows are joined.
Join all subsequent rows in the same manner, the 3rd row to the bottom of the 2nd and so on.
Finished size: approx. 57" x 85".
I am making a weight loss scrapghan of teardrop shaped pieces. Each teardrop represents the blood, sweat and tears that went into losing each lb. I'll make 5 teardrops for each lb. lost. 25 per row and 20 rows. I am using bright and dark colors, but no black, grays, browns/tans, or beige. No white ones either because I am putting them together in white.
I will post the pattern as I go. Here is my progress so far:
Teardrops: worsted weight, scraps of different colors - approx. 7-8 ft. needed for each teardrop
Edging: white, worst weight
Hook: H8 (5.00 mm)
Teardrop - Make 500
Ch. 5, sl to 1st ch. to join.
Rnd 1 - Ch. 2 (1st dc), 15 dcs in ring. Sl in top of 2nd ch to join. Do not fasten off. (16 dcs)
To make tip - Sl in next st. (hdc, dc) in next st. Ch 3, working now into back bumps of those chains, sk 1st ch, sl in next two. Picot made.
Hdc in same st as the (hdc, dc) made previously. Sl next two sts. Fasten off.
"Making Tip of Teardrop." With audio.
Sorry, I'm left-handed and I'm using my camera phone.
Joining the 1st 25 Teardrops Into a Row
The rounded end of the teardrop is the bottom and the pointed tip is the top.
Rnd 1 - Holding a teardrop tip down, join with white to the bottom most sc of teardrop. Ch 1, sc in same st.
Sc in each st around** to its widest point, join with sc to the widest point of 2nd teardrop (tip up). Now continue sc up to the top of the 2nd teardrop.
Place 3 scs into picot, continue edging down other side of 2nd teardrop to its widest point and join 3rd teardrop (tip down).
Keep adding teardrops, alternating tip up/tip down and joining at their wides points until you have joined all 25. Now you have one side of the row edged.
Continue edging the other side of the row in the same manner.
As you reach the joins already made, be sure to join these same sts again with a sc or there will be a noticeable gap in the edging.
Click photo to enlarge.
Rnd 2 - Ch 1, 2 sc's in 2nd sc worked into picot (the very tip of the teardrop).
*Sc next 2 sts, sk 1 st, dc dec in next st and in the st directly across from that one in the 2nd teardrop (these 2 sts are directly above the sts in which the teardrops were connected in the 1st rnd of edging. You will now work around the bottom of the 2nd teardrop:
Sk 1 st, 2 sc's next st. Sc next 2 sts, 2 sc's next st (very bottom of teardrop).
Sc next 2 sts, 2 sc's next st. Sc next st, sk 1 st, dc dec as previously to join next teardrop.
You will now work towards the tip of the 3rd teardrop:
Sk 1 st, sc next st. 2sc into next st (very tip).
Repeat from * until one side of the row is completely edged.
In the following section, you will connect this 2nd row to the 1st as you edge the other side of this row.
**Important Notes: In the first rnd of edging, I placed 2 scs in one st at strategic points in the edging, specifically at the top and when going around the curves on each side so that the edging didn't pucker. Also when I decided exactly where I wanted to join the drops, I counted how many sts away from the tip that was, in my case 5, so that each drop was joined at the same spot. When doing the 2nd rnd of edging there is one sc in each st around, with the exceptions of placing two sc's in the very tip, in the very bottom, 2 sts away from either side of the very bottom (or wherever you need to place them around the curves to keep the edging from puckering), and finally, skipping 1 st before and after each dc dec.
This photo shows the edgings. The top row has 1 rnd and the bottom has two rnds.
Edging the 2nd row and joining it to the 1st row.Rnd 1 - Work same as Rnd 1 on 1st row.
Rnd 2 - Work same as Rnd 2 on 1st row until one side is edged. Lay the 1st row flat on the table and the 2nd row beneath it. Line up the teardrops bottom to bottom and tip to tip. As you are edging the other side of the 2nd row you will connect it to the lower edge of the 1st row as such: Sl st together the 3 bottom-most sts of the 1st teardrop in row 2 with the 3 bottom-most sts in the 1st teardrop of row 1. Continue edging the 2nd row and when you reach the tip of the 2nd teardrop, sl st together the tips of the 2nd teardrops in each row: Now there are 3 scs worked into the picot of the lower tip and you'll be connecting it to the tip above it which has its 2nd Rnd of edging where there are 2 scs worked into the tip. So insert your hook into the 2nd sc in the picot below and sl st to the first sc in the tip above. Then insert your hook back into the 2nd sc in the picot below and sl st to the 2nd sc in the tip above. Continue edging the 2nd row, joining the bottoms and tips together until the rows are joined.
Join all subsequent rows in the same manner, the 3rd row to the bottom of the 2nd and so on.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Thursday, October 2, 2008
Toes Up Socks
I've started a pair of crocheted socks, using this pattern. I was having trouble with the heels and a very nice person on Crochetville recommended a site that gives more detailed heel instructions. (Sadly that site has been removed.)
So I will study that site and try the heels again. I'm using 1 (super fine) yarn and an E/3.5 mm hook. The yarn is from Knit Picks and is called Palette, the color is Autumn Heather, which is like a rust color.
So I will study that site and try the heels again. I'm using 1 (super fine) yarn and an E/3.5 mm hook. The yarn is from Knit Picks and is called Palette, the color is Autumn Heather, which is like a rust color.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Lush Baby Afghan Pattern Available Now!
A BIG thank you to all who helped with testing on Crochetville!
Skill Level: Easy
Yarn: Worsted Weight
Hook: J
Size: approx. 34” in diameter
Color A: Red Heart Classic, 0513 Parakeet: 2 oz.
Color B: Red Heart Classic, 0730 Grenadine: 1 oz.
Color C: Red Heart Classic, 0584 Lavender: 1.75 oz.
Color D: Red Heart Classic, 0168 Starbrights: 4 oz.
LUSH CLUSTER: *YO twice, insert hook into indicated space. YO and pull up a loop, (YO and draw through 2 loops) twice.* Repeat between * 2 more times. YO and draw through all 4 loops on hook.
MODIFIED LUSH CLUSTER: Sc into indicated space, ch 3. *YO twice, insert hook in indicated space. YO and pull up a loop, (YO pull through 2 loops) twice.* Repeat between * 1 more time. YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
*Note: the Modified Lush cluster is worked when starting a rnd that begins with a cluster and there is no color change required: sl st to the middle of the ch loop, work modified cluster once only, continue rnd as instructed with Lush clusters.
Other Stitches: ch, sl st, sc, dc
Beginning Ring- With Color A, ch 10 loosely, join with sl st to first ch to form ring.
Rnd 1- Work modified cluster into ring, ch 7 (Work cluster, ch 7) four times. Sl st into top of first cluster to join. Fasten off. 5 clusters
Rnd 2- With Color B. (Work cluster into ch sp, ch 6) twice. *In next ch sp: (Work cluster, ch. 6) twice.* Repeat between * 3 more times. Sl st into first ch above first cluster to join. Fasten off. 10 clusters
Rnd 3- With Color C. (Work cluster into ch sp, ch 4) twice. *In next ch sp: (Work cluster, ch. 4) twice.* Repeat between * 8 more times. Sl st into top of first cluster to join. Fasten off. 20 clusters
Rnd 4- With Color D, sc into ch sp, ch 2 (counts as first dc). 3 more dc’s into same ch sp. Ch 1. *Into next ch sp, 4 dc’s. Ch 1.* Repeat between * to end of rnd. Sl st into ch 2 to join (top of first dc). 80 dc’s
Rnd 5- *Ch 7 loosely, sk 4 sts, sl st into ch st.* Repeat between * to end of rnd. Sl st beneath 1st ch to join. 20 chain loops
Rnd 6- Sl st in next 4 chs. Work modified cluster into ch sp. Ch 6. *Into next ch sp: Work cluster, ch 6.* Repeat between * to end of rnd. Sl st into top of first cluster to join. Fasten off. 20 clusters
Rnd 7- With Color A, (Work cluster into ch sp, ch 4) twice. *Into next ch sp: (Work cluster, ch 4) twice.* Repeat between * to end of rnd. Sl st into top of first cluster to join. Fasten off. 40 clusters
Rnd 8- With Color B, Work cluster into ch sp, ch 4. *Into next ch sp: Work cluster, ch 4.* Repeat between * to end of rnd. Sl st into top of first cluster to join. Fasten off. 40 clusters
Rnd 9- With Color D, repeat Rnd 4. 160 dc’s
Rnd 10- Repeat Rnd 5. 40 chain loops
Rnd 11- Repeat Rnd 6. Fasten off. 40 clusters
Rnd 12- With Color C, repeat Rnd 7. Fasten off. 80 clusters
Rnd 13- With Color A, repeat Rnd 8. Fasten off. 80 clusters
Rnd 14- With Color D, repeat Rnd 4. 320 dc's
Rnd 15- Repeat Rnd 5. Fasten off. 80 chain loops
Copyright 2008. All Rights Reserved. This pattern may not be sold or duplicated in whole or in part by any means or method. Feel free to sell any finished items made from this pattern, but please give credit to this web page.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Spiral Scrapghan
I found the basic instructions for a 3 color spiral here: http://blog.interweavecrochet.com/
It said to increase each rnd by 9 sts. I started by counting so many sts, increasing, counting, increasing...then I figured out that each increase is worked into the increase in the previous row and could stop counting. Now it is so easy. I just change colors when I run out of one.
It started looking like a circle, but quickly turned into a 9-sided afghan from those increases. But it still looks great. There are no instructions for ending this, so I'll need to taper off each color at the end. One color is worked in sc, one in hdc and one in dc. The dc I'll taper by doing a couple hdc's, then sc's and finally slip to end. And do a similar taper for the others.
The wip above is about 2 ft. in diameter. I'll probably work it to about 5 ft.
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